Nerpio is about as far from anywhere as you can get in mainland Spain. The village lies in the southwestern corner of Albacete province, close to the borders of Murcia, Granada and Jaén, in a high, wild landscape of limestone ridges, pine forest and deep river valleys. The area is known for two things: walnuts, which grow in huge old trees along the Taibilla river and are celebrated in local cooking, and one of the densest concentrations of prehistoric rock art in the Iberian Peninsula, part of the UNESCO-listed rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. The generic label Zona 1 points at the hills near the village, where rock shelters with painted figures are scattered across the cliffs.
Nerpio has an interpretation centre for its rock art, and guided visits to some of the shelters can be arranged there; the best-known sites, like the Solana de las Covachas, feature hunters, archers, animals and enigmatic figures painted in red and black. Even if you do not visit a shelter, the walk through the hills, with views over canyons and the scent of pine and thyme, is rewarding.
Getting here is a ride worth doing for its own sake. The roads from Yeste, Moratalla or Santiago de la Espada climb and twist through forested mountains, with tight bends, steep sections, and views over reservoirs and valleys. Traffic is minimal, but so are guardrails in places, and the surfaces can be rough or covered with gravel and pine needles. Weather can change quickly at this altitude, with cold winds and even snow in winter, while summer brings clear skies and dry heat. The local roads are popular with cyclists and hunters, so stay alert.
Nerpio has a few bars, a small shop and simple lodging, but do not count on finding fuel here at every hour. Yeste, about twenty-seven kilometres away, is a larger village with services, and Huéscar in Granada, close to forty kilometres, is the nearest town of over five thousand. Fill your tank before heading into the mountains and carry water and snacks. In Nerpio, try walnut cake or local lamb, and if you visit in autumn, you may catch the walnut harvest and festival.