Checkerboard Mesa looks like something a giant has scratched into a loaf of bread. The great dome of cream Navajo sandstone stands just beside the road east of the tunnel, patterned with a grid of vertical and horizontal cracks that form a regular chessboard of blocks. The vertical lines are the remains of the original dune layers, and the horizontal ones come from weathering, as water seeps into the rock and freezes and thaws. The result is one of the best-known formations in the park, and one of the easiest to photograph from the roadside.
East of the tunnel the landscape changes completely. The tight canyon gives way to a high plateau of slickrock domes, pine and juniper, with a feeling of open space that contrasts with the narrow valley behind. The rock is white and pale pink, polished by wind and water into smooth bumps and hollows. The road runs through this broken country in a series of long, fluid bends, with turnouts every mile or so, and good views over the domes toward the horizon.
Riding here is a pleasure in good weather. The surface is smooth and the curves are open and predictable, and the speed limit, around 35 miles an hour in the park, suits the scenery. Wind can be strong on the plateau, and sudden showers are possible in the afternoon. In winter, patches of ice can linger on the shaded stretches, and it is wise to check the road report before leaving. The turnouts are small, so use them carefully.
Springdale lies about thirty-six kilometres behind, and Mount Carmel Junction, outside the park to the east, has a small station and a cafe. Take water, as it can be hot, and carry a spare layer for the evening.
Pull out at the small parking area near the mesa, and walk up the slickrock for a few minutes. The rock is rough and grippy, and the view over the domes is a long one, with the pale cliffs on the horizon. Desert varnish, a dark patina made by bacteria, streaks the walls, and tiny pockets in the rock hold water after rain, with a brief life of tadpole shrimp and other creatures. Treat the area with care, and stay on the rock to avoid damaging the fragile soil crust.