Before there was a Vienna, there was a frontier. For some four hundred years the Danube formed the northern boundary of the Roman empire in central Europe, and a chain of forts, watchtowers and harbours kept watch along the south bank. Zeiselmauer, about thirty kilometres upstream from the modern capital, was one of them, and a stretch of Roman wall with a tower still stands in the village, incorporated into later buildings. The Danube Limes in Austria, Germany and Slovakia was listed by UNESCO in 2021.
The fort here was one of the auxiliary forts on the river, and in the middle ages the site was reused, with its walls forming the basis of a church and village. The Roman tower, one of the highest surviving Roman structures in Austria, is the main thing to look for, and a small museum in the village tells the story. The river meanders through wooded floodplains here, and the Wienerwald hills rise to the south, giving a pleasant mix of landscapes.
The riding is gentle and varied. The Danube road, with its long views over the river, is straight and fairly fast, while the roads that climb into the Wienerwald are twisting, shaded and a pleasure, with beech woods, small villages and wine taverns. Cyclists are common, particularly along the Danube cycle path, so give them room. Summer weekends bring crowds from Vienna, and weekdays are quiet. Late September and October are lovely, with the vineyards turning gold.
Zeiselmauer is a small village with a bakery and an inn, and for fuel and shops Stockerau, seven kilometres away, is the sensible choice, with Klosterneuburg and Tulln also close. The Heurigen, wine taverns, serve young wine and cold meats in courtyards and gardens, and a green branch hung over the door signals that they are open. A rider can enjoy the atmosphere over a glass of grape juice or a cup of coffee, and the food, which includes schnitzel and pretzels, is excellent.