A Roman fort is built around its gates, and the Kastentor at Zeiselmauer is where the road once entered the fort of Cannabiaca. Gates were the weak point of any fort, so they were guarded by towers and given heavy doors, and the roads that led through them were the arteries of the frontier. This gate faced the main road along the Danube, and soldiers, merchants and messengers passed through it for generations. The excavation of the gate gave archaeologists a close look at how the fort was built and how it changed over time.
The village around it is small, with about fourteen hundred inhabitants, and its neighbour Muckendorf is a little smaller. Together they sit on a gentle terrace above the river, with the Wienerwald rising behind and the flat Danube plain stretching away to the north. This is a landscape of vineyards and orchards, with farm shops selling apples and wine, and the churches are baroque with onion domes.
Riding here is relaxed. The road runs along the foot of the hills, with a little curve and a little climb, and the river is never far away. Greifenstein, a short way east, has a castle perched above the water, and further on Klosterneuburg has a great monastery with an old wine cellar. Tulln, to the west, is a larger town known for its flowers and for its connection to the Nibelungen legend. The area is popular on weekends with cyclists, so watch out for them on the narrow roads.
Vienna is only about twenty kilometres away, so you can use this as a quiet approach or departure from the city. Fuel is better in the bigger towns, and a little planning avoids a detour. In autumn the fog settles in the river valley, and the sun burns through by midday, giving a lovely light on the vineyards. Spring blossom is also fine. If you are interested in Roman history, ask at the local museum or at the town hall about the remains. The people are proud of what lies under their village.