Zeiselmauer is a village that grew up inside a Roman fort, and it never quite moved out. The late Roman fort of Cannabiaca guarded this stretch of the Danube near Tulln, part of the frontier of the province of Noricum, and its walls, gate and towers were absorbed into the village over the centuries. One of the best-preserved features is a horseshoe-shaped tower, typical of late Roman fortifications, and a later fortlet within the fort, with walls standing several metres high, is one of the most impressive Roman buildings in Austria. Zeiselmauer is part of the Danube Limes, listed by UNESCO in 2021.
Walking around the village, you come across Roman walls in gardens, alongside houses and behind the church, and information boards help to piece the fort back together. The atmosphere is quiet and rural, with vineyards, fields and the floodplain forest of the Danube nearby.
The riding is a pleasant mix. The Tullnerfeld is flat, with straight roads through farmland and villages, but just to the south rise the hills of the Wienerwald, the Vienna Woods, a classic riding area for the Viennese, with twisting roads through beech forest, over passes like the Riederberg, and down to wine villages. The roads are popular with motorcyclists, and the police are attentive, with speed checks and noise controls, especially on weekends. The Danube cycle path runs nearby, so expect cyclists everywhere.
Zeiselmauer is a small village, so for fuel and full services head for Stockerau, across the river, about seven kilometres away, or Tulln, a pleasant town with a riverside promenade and a museum dedicated to the painter Egon Schiele, who was born there. Klosterneuburg, to the east, has a magnificent abbey, famous for its wine and its medieval altarpiece.
Local food includes Heuriger fare: cold cuts, cheeses, spreads and bread with a glass of new wine. Come in spring, when the vineyards and forests turn green, or in autumn, when the grape harvest brings festivals and the Wienerwald glows gold. Summer can be hot and busy. Stop in the village, walk around the walls and enjoy a quiet slice of Roman Austria before heading into the forest roads.