Ždiar is a long, thin village stretched along a single road at the foot of the Belianske Tatras, and it has a character that sets it apart even in the Tatras. The people are górali, mountain folk like their neighbours across the Polish border, and the old farmhouses are low, dark timber with white-painted trim and carved decorations under the eaves. The fields behind the houses are laid out in narrow strips running up the slope, an arrangement that has survived for centuries and gives the hillside a combed look.
Riding here means arriving along the Freedom Road, the old name for the high road that links the villages along the southern foot of the High Tatras. Between the resort settlements, the road runs through sleepy villages and open meadows with the toothy limestone ridge of the Belianske Tatras to the north. It is a smooth, undemanding road with modest bends and good views, and the best light comes in the evening, when the ridge goes pink and the traffic thins out. Summer weekends bring crowds and tour buses, so choose your timing carefully.
The Belianske Tatras differ from the granite High Tatras next door, because they are made of limestone, with white crags, caves and meadows of alpine flowers. Much of the range is a strict nature reserve, closed to casual walkers, which helps to keep chamois and marmots at ease. Ždiar sits at a high altitude by Slovak standards, so the air is crisp and the winters are long and snowy.
Ždiar has a long tradition of hospitality, and many houses offer rooms and a hot meal. Typical dishes are halušky with sheep cheese called bryndza, plus pierogi, grilled cheese and thick soups, washed down with a local beer. Fuel is not always at hand, so ride to Spišská Belá, about seventeen kilometres away, or Kežmarok, for a reliable station and supermarket. Across the border at Łysa Polana and the Polish side there is a lot more, but it is a long ride, so it is best to plan ahead before the evening.