Zahara sits on a cone of rock with a Moorish tower on top and a turquoise reservoir at its feet, and the combination is so photogenic that it looks like a poster for Andalusia. The village is a tumble of white houses with terracotta roofs, narrow lanes and flower pots, climbing the steep hill below the ruined castle. The reservoir below, fed by the Guadalete river, is a startling green-blue, especially in spring, and the sierra of Grazalema rises in grey limestone walls all around.
The castle at the top, a Nasrid fortress with a surviving keep, has a bigger role in Spanish history than its size suggests. In 1481, the Nasrid emir of Granada seized Zahara in a surprise attack at night, a raid that outraged the Christian kingdoms and is often cited as the spark that began the final war for Granada, which lasted until 1492. The Castilians retook the fortress two years later, and the place has been quiet ever since. The climb to the keep is steep and takes about twenty minutes from the village, and the view over the reservoir and the plain makes it worth the effort.
The village lies on the edge of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, a protected area of limestone peaks, gorges and Spanish fir forest that catches more rain than anywhere else in Spain. Griffon vultures circle over the cliffs, ibex graze on the high rock, and in the damp gorges you will find ferns and old holm oaks. The landscape is green in winter and gold in summer. The park is also one of the most popular ride areas in southern Spain, with a network of mountain roads that wind between villages.
The road from Zahara climbs toward the Puerto de las Palomas, then runs on to Grazalema, with views over the reservoir and a rolling series of bends through cork oaks and pines. The surface is generally good but narrow, and fog and rain can arrive suddenly. It is a rewarding road for a slow, steady pace. Be aware of cyclists and goats, and of the sharp drop at the roadside in places.
Zahara has a few restaurants, bars and shops, but for fuel you should go to Algodonales, about five kilometres away. A glass of local wine and a plate of cheese made from Payoya goats, a local breed, is a pleasant lunch. Spring is best, when the hillsides are bright with wildflowers and the reservoir is at its fullest.