A painted sign on the edge of Zagora famously announces Tombouctou 52 jours, the number of days it takes to reach Timbuktu by camel. Whether or not the journey was ever quite so precise, the sign sums up the town's place in history: the last major stop on the Draa valley route before the Sahara, where caravans carrying salt, gold, and slaves once gathered for the long crossing. Today Zagora has about thirty-five thousand people, a long avenue of shops and cafés, and a steady flow of visitors heading into the dunes.
The Draa valley is Morocco's longest river valley, a ribbon of date palms along a river that often runs underground, with villages of rammed earth and fortified granaries tucked between the palms. The surrounding country is hard and dry, with black rocky hills and wide plains, and the contrast between green and stone is sharp. Jbel Zagora, a flat-topped hill, stands above the town and is a short climb for a view across the valley, and the date harvest in autumn is a big event in the oases.
The ride from Ouarzazate is a classic. The road follows the Draa south-east past Agdz, then crosses a low pass through a dramatic ridge of dark rock before dropping to the valley floor, with views of palm groves and kasbahs. The road is generally well maintained, with long straights and occasional bends, but the heat is intense in summer, sand can blow across the tarmac, and distances between services are long. Spring and autumn are best, with clear air and moderate temperatures.
Close to Zagora, the village of Tamegroute has a famous pottery tradition, with a distinctive green glaze, and a library with old manuscripts, some of them centuries old, attached to a religious brotherhood. Zagora itself has fuel stations, workshops, banks and a wide choice of simple restaurants, and it is the last reliable place to fill the tank before heading into the desert beyond. Drink plenty of water, wear light layers under your gear, and start early to avoid the worst of the heat.