Zabriskie Point is the place that photographers drive to before dawn, and that most people see in the afternoon, and both are right. A short, steep path leads from the car park to a rocky platform that looks out over a landscape of eroded golden mudstone, ridged and folded like some enormous crumpled blanket. Beyond it the Panamint Range rises, and in the early light the whole badland glows in shades of honey and cream.
The badlands are the remains of an ancient lake bed. Millions of years ago, the region held a lake, and sediment from the surrounding mountains settled in layers on its floor. Later, the land was uplifted and torn apart, and rain carved the soft layers into the folds and gullies you see now. Borax, the mineral that made Death Valley economically important, was mined from similar deposits nearby, and the famous twenty-mule teams hauled it out across the desert in the 1880s. The point itself is named for Christian Brevoort Zabriskie, an executive of the company that ran the mines.
The road to the point is a spur off Highway 190, east of Furnace Creek, and it is short and easy. The main highway heading east climbs out of the valley with long, open bends, and the contrast between the stark badlands and the vast sky is very strong. It is a straightforward ride, with good surface and clear sightlines, though sand can drift across the pavement and the heat in summer is punishing. Italian director Michelangelo Antonioni gave the point a second life in a 1970 film of the same name, though the story has little to do with the place.
Furnace Creek, only a few miles away, has fuel, a store, and food, so it is the sensible base. Expect crowds at sunrise and sunset, and arrive early to get a good place on the platform. The light changes quickly, so be patient: the best colours often arrive a few minutes after you think you have seen them all. Wind and cold can catch riders out in winter mornings, so bring an extra layer. In summer, ride in the first hours of the day and rest in the shade when the heat arrives.