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Yomejima and peripheral reefs

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This is the one place on the list you cannot ride to, and it is worth being clear about that from the start. Yomejima is a small, uninhabited island in the Mukojima group, the northernmost cluster of the Ogasawara Islands, roughly a thousand kilometres south of Tokyo in the open Pacific. There are no roads, no people, no landing stage for visitors, and the reefs around it are part of the protected area that UNESCO inscribed as the Ogasawara Islands World Heritage site in 2011.

Why is it protected? Because these islands have never been connected to a continent. Everything that lives here arrived by wind, wave or wing, and then evolved in isolation. The result is a natural laboratory, sometimes called the Galápagos of the Orient, with a remarkable number of plants and land snails found nowhere else on earth, along with seabird colonies and rare birds. Introduced goats, rats and plants have done real damage over the past two centuries, and much conservation work has gone into removing them from the outer islands so that the native life can recover.

The nearest place a human can actually get to is Chichijima, the main inhabited island of the chain, and even that is an adventure. There is no airport for regular flights; the passenger ship from Tokyo takes around a day each way, and sailings run only every few days. On Chichijima there is a small town, a handful of roads looping over the hills to beaches and viewpoints, and boat tours that run out to dolphin and whale-watching grounds and, weather permitting, towards the more distant islands.

So think of Yomejima as a marker on a map rather than a stop on a ride. If your route has led you here, the honest advice is to enjoy the idea of it: a speck of volcanic rock ringed by coral and deep blue water, frigate birds wheeling above, entirely without traffic. If you find yourself in Japan with time to spare and the urge to do something truly remote, the long voyage to Chichijima is one of the most memorable trips the country offers, and a rented bike or scooter on the island will get you to its lookouts.

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