Yilan lies on the Pacific coast in north-eastern Taiwan, in the Lanyang plain, a green triangle of rice paddies and scallion fields that is hemmed in by steep mountains on three sides and the open ocean on the fourth. It is wetter than the rest of the island, with rain in most months, and the damp gives the landscape a soft, mossy look. Offshore, Guishan Island, shaped like a turtle, rises from the water and can be seen from the shore on a clear day, and boats go out for whale and dolphin watching from the harbour at Wushih.
The county is known for food and hot springs. The Sanxing scallions are famed across the island, and street stalls sell them wrapped in pancakes. The night markets of Luodong, with their grilled meats, sweet snacks and local specialities, are a highlight. At Jiaoxi, a spa town nearby, hot water springs are piped into hotel baths and free public foot-soaking pools, which are ideal after a day on a bike.
The riding is Yilan's greatest asset. To the west, the Northern Cross-Island Highway climbs into the mountains toward Daxi, a classic route of bends and views. Along the coast, the old road to Taipei follows the sea cliffs through tunnels and past fishing villages, while the long Hsuehshan Tunnel, almost thirteen kilometres, speeds traffic through the mountains on the expressway, but it is not open to small scooters. South, the coastal cliffs of the Suhua road toward Hualien offer some of the most spectacular sea views in Asia, though landslides and rockfalls make it unpredictable.
Typhoons are the main hazard from July to October, and heavy rain can close mountain roads for days, so check the forecast. Fuel is easy in a city of nearly a hundred thousand people. The best months are spring and autumn, and it is worth planning for at least one wet day.