In the souvenir shops of Almería there is a little stick figure with outstretched arms and a rainbow arching over his head, and it comes from here. This is the Indalo, a prehistoric painting found in the Cueva de los Letreros near Vélez-Blanco, and it has become the emblem of the whole province, painted on houses and doors and carved on bracelets. Nobody knows quite what it meant, though some say it was a charm against storms. Yedra is a nearby shelter, a short drive from the village, and belongs to the same group of rock art sites that UNESCO lists as part of the Mediterranean Basin tradition.
The high country around Vélez-Blanco is a surprise for anyone who knows only the Almería of beaches and greenhouses. The altitude brings cold winters and cool nights, and the landscape is a fold of limestone ridges and plateaus, with almond orchards, scrubby pine woods and cliffs where griffon vultures nest. The Sierra María rises behind, and its slopes hold some of the best walking in the province. In spring the hills are covered with small flowers, and the air is full of the scent of thyme.
For motorcyclists, the roads here are open and quiet. They roll across the plateau in long, easy curves, with views of distant sierras, and climb into the hills with a pleasing series of bends. The surface is mostly good, and there is very little traffic, though tractors and flocks of sheep can appear around any corner. Weather in winter can be sharp, with frost and the occasional fall of snow, so check conditions before setting out. Summer is hot, and the early morning is best.
Vélez-Blanco is less than two kilometres away, with bars, a couple of small restaurants and the castle on its hill. Vélez-Rubio is larger and has fuel and shops, with María a short ride further. Try the local almond cakes and a coffee at one of the cafés on the main street. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for a visit, with mild days and clear skies.