Yedigöller means seven lakes, and the name is exact: seven small lakes strung through a forested bowl in the mountains of Bolu province, at about eight hundred metres, a few hours inland from the Black Sea. The national park that protects them is one of the most visited in Turkey, and it earns the crowds in autumn, when the beech, hornbeam and oak woods turn every shade of gold, copper and red, and the water reflects the whole display. The largest lake, Büyükgöl, has a path around it and a good place to sit with a tea.
The lakes were formed by landslides that dammed streams, a reminder that the land here is still moving. The forest is dense and damp, with ferns and moss on the old trunks, and it is home to deer, wild boar and a rich range of birds, with bears and wolves living deeper in the hills. The air smells of wet leaves and wood smoke, and the sound of the place is the drip of water from the branches. In winter, snow closes parts of the park and the roads leading to it, and in spring the lakes are full from the meltwater.
The road to the park climbs from the plain around Bolu through forest in a long series of bends, with a surface that is generally good but can be damp and covered with leaves, particularly in autumn. It is an enjoyable ride, with gentle gradients and cool, shaded air, and the traffic is light during the week, though weekends in October bring buses and cars in large numbers. An entry fee is charged at the park gate, and opening hours apply, so check before you set off. The state of the road in winter depends on the snow, and chains or winter tyres may be needed.
Bolu, twenty-six kilometres away, is a large provincial city with every kind of fuel station, shop and restaurant, and it is famous for its cooks: the villages around Mengen have trained chefs for the Ottoman palace and for kitchens across Turkey. In the park there are small cafes and restaurants serving grilled trout and simple Turkish dishes, but options are limited, and it is wise to arrive with a full tank. The best time to visit is during the week in autumn, or in late spring when the forest is bright green and the crowds have not yet arrived.