Yanxiang Lou belongs to the group of Fujian earthen houses recognised by UNESCO, and what distinguishes it, in a region full of astonishing buildings, is its history as the home of a single prosperous family. The word lou simply means a building of several storeys, and it is used for many of the larger tulou.
The building tells a story about wealth. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries many families from this part of Fujian made money from tobacco, tea and trading, and some members emigrated to Southeast Asia, particularly to Malaya, Singapore and Indonesia, then sent funds back to build or improve the family house. That is why some tulou have unexpectedly fine decoration, with carved stone door frames, painted murals and imported tiles, and sit alongside much plainer neighbours. The house stands as much for a family's ambition as for its defence.
The valley is a classic one for the district: steep green hills, terraced fields of rice and tea, groves of bamboo and a clear stream. From the road you see the round and square houses scattered like pieces on a board, with grey tiled roofs and earth-coloured walls that blend into the slopes. The riding in the region is slow and twisty, on narrow roads with sharp bends, short gradients and plenty of trucks and minibuses, and heavy rain can leave the road greasy or covered with debris. Mist and cloud often settle in the valleys in the morning.
Visitors should note that foreign motorcyclists generally cannot ride in China without Chinese documents and registration, so inquire about this before making plans. Visiting in October or November gives dry weather and golden rice fields. A small shop beside the road will usually sell snacks and tea.