Yangmingshan rises just north of Taipei, a volcanic massif that fills the skyline and cools the air by several degrees. The park, a national park since 1985, takes in the Tatun volcano group, an old cluster of cones that has been quiet for a long time, though fumaroles, sulphur vents and hot springs still show the fire beneath. The highest peak, Qixing Mountain, stands at around 1,120 metres, and is the high point of the Taipei basin. The air smells faintly of sulphur at the vents, which is a surprise to those who thought they had left the city.
The mountain used to be called Caoshan, and was renamed in the 1950s by Chiang Kai-shek, after the Ming dynasty philosopher Wang Yangming. It became a retreat for officials and a weekend escape for the city, and today it is one of Taipei's best-loved outdoor places. In February and March, cherry blossoms line the paths, followed by calla lilies in spring and the silver grass of Mount Qixing in autumn. Hot springs are everywhere, and nearby Beitou is the traditional place to soak after a ride.
For a motorcyclist, Yangmingshan has some of the best roads close to a big Asian city. Yangjin Highway climbs from the city or from the coast in loops and hairpins through forest and open grassland, with views down toward Taipei and, to the north, the sea. The roads can be busy on weekends, with scooters, cyclists and tour buses, and the surface is generally good, if slippery in the drizzle that often drapes the mountain. In winter, the north-east monsoon brings mist and light rain, and visibility can drop quickly, so a clear dry day is a gift. Early mornings in spring and autumn are the best times, when the traffic is light and the air is washed.
Taipei is only fourteen kilometres away, so fuel, food and everything else are easy, with convenience stores on almost every corner and night markets that stay open late. On the mountain itself, there are a few small restaurants and tea houses by the roadside, and parking spots at the main visitor areas fill early on holidays. Keelung, on the north coast, is famous for its harbour night market and its seafood, and makes a natural next stop for hungry riders.
Wear something warm: the top can be much cooler and wetter than the city below.