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Yaksu-ri Tomb

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Not every place on a list like this is somewhere an ordinary visitor can simply ride to, and Yaksu-ri is one of them. The tomb lies in the west of North Korea, near the coastal city of Nampo, and it is one of the painted tombs of Koguryo, an ancient kingdom that ruled much of Korea and Manchuria for several centuries. The group of tombs was listed by UNESCO in 2004, and visits are only possible on organised, escorted tours, which means that planning a motorbike trip here is not realistic.

The tomb itself is well known among historians for its murals. Painted on plastered stone walls in the early centuries of the first millennium, they show scenes of daily life in unusual detail: a procession of officials and soldiers, musicians, a household, a kitchen and stables, with figures in different costumes. The tomb belonged to a high-ranking person, though experts do not agree on who, and the paintings give a view of Koguryo society that is hard to find anywhere else. Some details also show influences from China and Central Asia, a reminder of how connected the kingdom was.

The landscape around is low hills and rice fields, and the Taedong river runs to the sea nearby. The West Sea Barrage at Nampo, a huge dam across the estuary, is a large piece of Cold War engineering, and the countryside on the way to Pyongyang, the capital, is a mix of farmland, cooperative villages and modest towns. Roads are wide and often empty of traffic, but their quality varies, and foreigners are accompanied by guides throughout.

If you are drawn to this subject, the better advice is to read about Koguryo, whose later tombs are also found in Chinese territory around Ji'an, where access is easier. For anyone planning travel, check your government's current advice, because the situation can change.

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