Before the Spanish arrived, the Valley of Mexico was a land of lakes, and the people who lived around them developed an ingenious way to farm the water. They built chinampas, artificial islands of mud and vegetation anchored by willow trees, separated by canals, and grew maize, beans, squash and flowers on them. In Xochimilco, in the south of Mexico City, a remnant of that world survives, with a network of canals and chinampas that is still farmed and navigated today. It is part of the UNESCO listing of the Historic Centre of Mexico City and Xochimilco, and the most famous image of the area is the trajinera, a brightly painted flat-bottomed boat that carries visitors along the canals, often accompanied by mariachi bands and floating food stalls.
Xochimilco is also home to the axolotl, a strange salamander that never fully grows up, keeping its feathery gills throughout its life. It is critically endangered in the wild, and efforts are being made to protect it in the canals. The chinampas themselves are threatened by pollution, urban growth and falling water levels, and some farmers are working to keep the traditional methods alive.
Riding in Mexico City is a challenge. The traffic is heavy, chaotic and unpredictable, and the air quality can be poor. The city has a programme that restricts vehicle use on certain days according to licence plate numbers, and visitors should check how it applies to them. The roads can be potholed, and speed bumps, topes, appear without warning. Still, riding through the city is an experience, and the south of the city offers an escape: the road up to the Ajusco volcano climbs through pine forests to more than three thousand metres, with views over the valley, and it is a popular ride for local motorcyclists.
Xochimilco has plenty of fuel stations, shops and restaurants, and the markets are full of food, flowers and crafts. The best time to visit the canals is on a weekday morning, when they are quieter. The weather is mild all year round, but the rainy season, from June to September, brings heavy afternoon storms, so plan your rides for the morning.