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Xitue Ecological Station

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

The Xitue Ecological Station is a different kind of place from most on a route map, because it is not for visitors. It is a strictly protected reserve in the interior of Sao Paulo state, set aside for scientific research and conservation, and normal tourism is not allowed. It forms part of the Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves, the UNESCO listing that protects what is left of a forest that once covered the whole Brazilian coast and has been reduced to a small fraction of its former extent. Its role is to keep a piece of that forest intact, as a reference and a refuge for animals and plants that cannot survive elsewhere.

What you can do is ride around it, and appreciate it from the outside. The roads of the region run through a mosaic of forest remnants, pastures, eucalyptus plantations and small farms, and the contrast between the dense, dark green of the protected forest and the more open land around it is striking. In the mornings, mist rises from the valleys, and the calls of birds, including toucans and parrots, come from the edge of the trees. The area lies in the upper basin of the Paranapanema and the Ribeira valleys, and the climate is humid, with frequent rain.

Roads vary from good asphalt to dirt tracks that turn to red mud after storms, so check the weather before setting out. Gradients are moderate, bends are frequent and the scenery changes with each ridge. Traffic is mostly trucks, farm vehicles and the occasional bus. The best months for riding are from April to September, when it is drier and cooler, and the summer months bring heavy downpours, which can cause floods and landslides. Respect fences and signs, and do not try to enter the reserve.

Capao Bonito, about thirty kilometres away, is the main town of the area, with fuel, shops and a cluster of restaurants, and it is where you should fill up and stock up. Villages nearer the reserve have little. Enjoy a plate of rice, beans and grilled meat in a roadside restaurant, and a strong Brazilian coffee, which is excellent. The people of the region are friendly and happy to help with directions.

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