Wunu Mountain City is a ruined fortress on a flat-topped crag in Liaoning province, in the green hills of northeastern China, and it was probably the first capital of the Goguryeo kingdom. Before that kingdom grew into a power that rivalled Chinese dynasties, its founders chose a mountain stronghold above a river for safety. Cliffs shelter the plateau on almost every side, and the builders closed the few gaps with stone walls. Inside, there are traces of buildings, a spring, a soldier's quarters and a platform that may have served as a lookout. It is part of the Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom, listed by UNESCO in 2004, which takes in sites around Huanren and Ji'an.
The ride is easy to enjoy. Huanren, the small county town about eight kilometres away, sits beside a long, winding reservoir on the Hun River, and the roads that follow it are lined with maize, ginseng fields and forested hills. The climb up to the mountain is steep and the last part is on foot, with a stairway that is longer than it looks. The air stays cooler up there and the views over the reservoir are some of the best in the region. Roads in this part of China are well surfaced, but tourist coaches and trucks make them busy at peak times, and the local style of overtaking takes getting used to.
Autumn is the time to come, when the oaks and maples turn yellow and red, and the sky is clear. Summer is warm and humid with heavy rain from July to August. Winters are deeply cold, with snow, and the stairway can be icy.
Huanren has fuel stations, a handful of simple restaurants and some local specialities. The area is known for ginseng and for freshwater fish from the reservoir, served stewed with tofu in iron pots, and for the strong flavours of northeastern Chinese cooking. Ji'an, a longer ride to the southeast on the Yalu River, holds the great tombs and the capital's later remains, including the huge General's Tomb, and is the obvious next stop for anyone following the story.
Visiting rules for foreign riders in China are strict, since driving requires a local licence and registration. Most visitors travel with a driver or guide.