Wulong lies in the folded mountains of southeastern Chongqing, where the Wu river has carved its way through limestone for millions of years, and the result is among the most dramatic karst landscapes in China. It forms part of the South China Karst, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the area includes Furong Cave, the Three Natural Bridges and the Qingkou Giant Doline, a sinkhole so large that it holds a forest inside it. The scale of everything is hard to take in until you stand at the edge.
Furong Cave, named after the river that flows past its mouth, is one of the longest and most elaborate show caves in the region, with huge chambers, calcite flows, stalagmites and strange formations lit in colour. It was formed over a very long time by water working through the rock. The three bridges, Tianlong, Qinglong and Heilong, are natural limestone arches spanning gorges, with the river running deep below. The ground around is a maze of sinkholes, caves and steep, forested valleys.
Wulong has a county town with fuel stations and hotels, but the back roads between the sights are long and empty, so start with a full tank and carry some margin. The mountain roads in this region are twisting and steep, often cut into cliff faces, with tunnels and bridges, and fog is common. Surfaces are generally paved, though landslides after heavy rain can close sections. Fast and slow traffic mix freely, so ride with a margin.
As elsewhere in China, riding a motorcycle independently as a foreigner is heavily restricted, so plan with a licensed operator. The best times to visit are spring and autumn, when the air is clearer and the valleys are green or gold. In summer the plateau above, with its alpine meadows, is a cool escape from the heat of Chongqing, and locals flock there. Food is spicy, often with smoked meat, wild mushrooms and strong tea, and the evenings are cool and quiet.