Wollongong is a steel town that decided to become a beach town, and the result is a more interesting city than either description suggests. It stretches along a narrow coastal plain between the Illawarra escarpment, a steep green wall of forest and rock, and the Tasman Sea. To the south the chimneys of Port Kembla's steelworks send plumes into the sky, and to the north the beaches begin, with surfers, rock pools and a little lighthouse at the harbour.
The city grew on coal and steel, and for most of the twentieth century it was among the country's industrial centres, a place of heavy work, migrants from across Europe and strong unions. That history still gives Wollongong a no-nonsense character, and the migrants left behind a legacy in food, with Greek, Italian and Macedonian cafes and bakeries scattered through the suburbs. The Nan Tien Temple, a large and beautiful Buddhist temple at Berkeley, belongs to a more recent chapter, and it is open to visitors with a vegetarian restaurant. The University of Wollongong adds a young, lively crowd to the mix.
For a rider, Wollongong is the end of the Grand Pacific Drive and a convenient place for a proper break. It has all the services you could need, with fuel, motorcycle workshops, supermarkets and plenty of cafes. Park near the harbour, where the old breakwater lighthouse stands on a small headland, and walk out to Flagstaff Point for the view. The fishermen's co-operative at the harbour sells fresh fish, and a plate of fish and chips there on a sunny day is hard to beat.
The roads behind the city are worth knowing. Mount Keira lookout is a short climb up the escarpment, with a long view over the coast, and the steep road to the top is a good test of brakes and nerve, with tight bends and often a bit of gravel. Further on, the road to Macquarie Pass, a twisting climb through rainforest, is one of the best short rides in the region, though the surface is rough and wet after rain.
The traffic in the city can be heavy, particularly at the end of the working day, so plan to arrive outside the peak. Mid-morning in spring or autumn, with a clear sky and the sea breeze starting, is the best time to be here.