Winterthur is the city people overlook on the way to Zürich, and that is their loss. It is the sixth largest city in Switzerland, with a compact old town of pastel houses, pedestrian streets and a reputation for being modest, practical and well-fed. The old centre around Marktgasse is car-free, with cafés and bakeries spilling onto the pavement, and a stroll along it is enough to understand why the locals call themselves Winterthurer first and Zürcher a distant second.
Winterthur grew rich on industry. The Sulzer company made diesel engines and locomotives here for over a century, and the engineering heritage shows in the converted factory halls that now hold housing, offices and the Lokremise, a former locomotive depot turned cultural space. The city is also full of museums. The Oskar Reinhart collections hold excellent European art assembled by a local merchant family, and the Technorama science centre on the hill above town lets children and adults play with levers, lightning and sound.
As a return stop, Winterthur is ideal. Riders coming from Lake Constance or the Thurgau hills arrive at the end of the day, and the city offers a proper meal, a seat and a chance to stretch before the final run home. Restaurants range from simple bakeries to better dining rooms, and the Swiss habit of closing the kitchen early means you should aim to eat before eight or nine. Look for places with outdoor seating if the weather is mild.
There is no trouble with fuel, since the city has stations on all the main roads, and the old town has parking for motorcycles at the edges. Inside the centre traffic is restricted, so leave the bike in a designated area and walk. Keep an eye on the weather, because the hills around Winterthur can hold fog in autumn and winter, and the ride in may be cooler than you expect.
The motorway to Zürich is only twenty minutes away, but if you have energy left, take the back roads through the Töss valley or past the Kyburg castle, which stands on a hilltop on the way and is worth a visit. The evening light there is particularly good, and the castle walls glow in the last sun.