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CURVESCOUT / PLACE TO SEE

Winslow (area 35.8,-94.1)

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Winslow, Arkansas, is a small place on a big hill. It sits at around 520 metres in the Boston Mountains, the highest part of the Ozarks, on US 71, which for generations was the main road between Fort Smith and Fayetteville, and the old highway still twists up through the town in a series of bends that every trucker once cursed. The town has fewer than five hundred people and a handful of shops and cafes, but its position makes it a natural place to pause between the valley and the high country.

The geography is the story. The Boston Mountains are not really mountains, but a deeply dissected plateau of sandstone and shale, cut by creeks into narrow valleys and steep ridges, with a thick cover of oak and hickory that blazes in October. Roads here follow the ridge crests wherever they can and plunge into hollows where they cannot, and that makes the riding excellent. The curves are tight and frequent, the gradients steady and the surface variable, with some good, some patched. Weekday traffic is light, but weekends, especially in autumn, bring more cars. Watch for deer, gravel on corners, and the odd log truck.

Winslow's history is tied to the railway, which crossed the divide here in a tunnel in the 1880s, and the town developed around the line. The old highway and the railway have shaped the community, which still has some tidy older buildings and a few reminders of the days when travellers stopped for the night. In summer, the cool air at altitude made it a minor resort for visitors escaping the heat of the lowlands.

The reliable options are West Fork, about fifteen kilometres to the north, and Prairie Grove to the north-west, which has more shops. Fayetteville, bigger still, lies beyond. For a longer day, a stop for pie at a local cafe is the traditional answer. Keep an eye on the weather, since fog can settle on the ridge and spring storms can be violent.

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