The Border Ranges are where Queensland leans against New South Wales, and Wilsons Peak, a rocky summit on the line between the two states, is part of that tumbled wall. The flora reserve around it protects a patch of high, cool forest on the old volcanic ranges, and it is one of those places that the wider world mostly forgets. The land here was shaped by the huge Tweed volcano, which erupted for millions of years, leaving behind a circle of mountains and deep valleys.
Forests on the higher slopes are some of Australia's oldest. Antarctic beech grows in the cool, damp cloud zone, with ferns, orchids and mosses around the trunks. Lower down there are subtropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, filled with the sounds of bellbirds, lyrebirds and rustling wallabies. These forests form part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, a UNESCO listing. The scent after rain, wet bark, leaf litter and cold stone, is unforgettable.
The nearest town is Boonah, over thirty kilometres away, with Kalbar and Kooralbyn further out. These are small country towns, and Boonah is where you should buy fuel, food and anything else you need. Between there and the reserve you are in remote territory, so carry water, a basic repair kit and extra layers, since weather at altitude turns quickly from sunshine to cloud and rain.
The roads leading to the reserve include gravel forestry tracks that suit a trail bike or an adventure machine, though they become slick and rutted after rain, and some are closed in wet weather. The sealed roads in the Scenic Rim, which curve around the valleys below the ranges, are a delight, with long, flowing bends and green paddocks. Spring is superb, with wildflowers and mild days, while winter nights get cold. Check with the Queensland and New South Wales park agencies about closures before you go.