Wilderness beach is a wide, pale curve of sand that runs east from the mouth of the Touw River toward Sedgefield, backed by dunes, lakes and wooded hills, and on a calm morning it is among the loveliest places on the Garden Route. The Indian Ocean rolls in with long, slow breakers, and the horizon is clean and blue, with the dark green flank of the Outeniqua mountains behind. The beach stretches for many kilometres, so you can walk for as long as you like and meet nobody but a few dog walkers and the odd fisherman casting a line from the shore.
It is also a place to take care. The surf here can be powerful, and rip currents are common along this coast, so swim only where lifeguards are on duty, in the busy summer season from about December to January, and stay in sight of the flags. At other times, the water is cold and the surf unpredictable. Walking along the beach is safer, and low tide reveals shells, rock pools and the long, curved lines of the dunes. The lagoon at the Touw river mouth is calmer and good for paddling, though the water can be brackish and tea-coloured from the forest.
The wildlife is a main attraction. Between July and November, southern right whales come into the bays here to calve, and you can often see them from the dunes, with their broad backs breaking the surface and their huge tails slapping the water. Dolphins patrol the surf line throughout the year, and in the lakes behind the beach, kingfishers, herons and fish eagles hunt in the reeds. The coastal forest and fynbos behind the dunes are full of birds and sunbirds, with the scent of wild sage and sea air.
Riding to the beach is easy, along the N2 and the quiet road down to the sand, with only a small stretch of loose sand at the parking area, so be careful with a heavy bike. The weather changes quickly, with morning mist often burning away to hot sunshine, and sudden showers are normal. The best months are February to April, when the sea is warm and the crowds have gone. George, about eleven kilometres away, has fuel, supermarkets and every service, while the village has a few cafes and a small shop, so bring water and sun protection.