Wietze is a village with a surprising secret: it was once one of the most important oil fields in Europe. Oil was found seeping from the ground here in the nineteenth century, and by 1859 drilling had begun, among the earliest in the world. In the early twentieth century the field was one of the largest in Germany, with derricks crowding the heath, and for decades the oil that came from Wietze helped to fuel a growing industrial nation. By the middle of the century the wells were running dry, and the derricks were gone, but the village remembers.
The German Oil Museum, set on the old oil field, tells the story, with preserved derricks, pumps, and machinery, and a historic drilling rig that can be climbed. Wooden derricks stand in the trees, and the ground around still holds the shape of old pits. For anyone with a fondness for engines and old machines, it is a fascinating place, and even a quick look from the road is worth the detour. The site also shows the human side of the boom: the cramped lodgings, the long hours, and the dangers of the work.
The riding around Wietze is gentle and quiet. The Aller flows beside the village, and the flat roads follow the river through meadows and pine woods, with long straights and easy bends. The surface is generally good, and traffic is light. Sandy side roads can be loose, especially after dry spells, and in autumn, leaves and mud can make the surface slippery. It is the sort of country in which an hour goes by without a car, and the main event is the smell of pine resin and warm sand.
For a coffee return, Wietze has a bakery, a couple of cafes, and a supermarket, and the fuel station on the main road is convenient. Winsen, about six kilometres away, is the larger neighbour with more choice. The museum has seasonal opening hours, so check before you go, and bring a rain layer, because the weather is changeable. The best seasons are spring and autumn, and a late-afternoon stop in the warm light is a pleasant end to a day on the flat roads of the Aller valley.