Under the Hoher Markt, one of the oldest squares in Vienna, lie the foundations of the Roman legionary fortress of Vindobona. The Tenth Legion was stationed here for centuries, guarding the Danube frontier, and the camp covered much of what is now the inner city. Its outline can still be traced in the pattern of streets: the curve of the Graben follows the line of the fortress moat, and the old Roman road toward the west became today's Herrengasse. A small museum on the Hoher Markt displays the remains of officers' houses, with their heating systems, and finds from the camp.
Vienna has grown over Vindobona like ivy over a ruin. The Hoher Markt today is surrounded by elegant buildings, and above it hangs the Ankeruhr, an Art Nouveau clock where figures from Viennese history, from Marcus Aurelius, who may have died in the city, to Joseph Haydn, parade across a bridge between two buildings, with a full procession at noon. The cathedral of St Stephen, a few minutes' walk away, dominates the skyline with its tall spire and colourful tiled roof.
Riding in central Vienna requires patience. The inner city has narrow streets, pedestrian zones, one-way systems, trams and a lot of traffic, and parking is restricted. Motorcycles may park in some designated places, but rules are strict, and you should check the signs. The Ring, the grand boulevard around the inner city, is lined with palaces, museums and parks, and a slow ride around it is a fine introduction. Outside the city, the Vienna Woods to the west offer twisty roads through forests and vineyards, and the Höhenstraße climbs to viewpoints over the city.
Fuel stations are on the main roads outside the inner city. Viennese food is an institution: schnitzel, Tafelspitz, boiled beef with horseradish and apple sauce, goulash, and cakes in the great coffee houses, such as Sachertorte and apple strudel. The coffee houses are places to linger, with newspapers and marble tables. Park the bike outside the centre, take the underground, and walk to the Hoher Markt; then stand under the Ankeruhr and remember that the city's story began here, with a Roman camp on the Danube.