The Vizcaíno desert crosses the Baja California peninsula at its waist, a wide, flat plain of salt, scrub and cardon cactus that runs from the Pacific to the Gulf, and in it lies a sanctuary for the grey whale. El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, one of the largest in Latin America, takes in two huge coastal lagoons where the whales come every winter to mate and give birth. UNESCO listed the sanctuary in 1993.
The town of Guerrero Negro, about twenty-seven kilometres away, grew up around the salt works. The giant evaporation ponds on the lagoon shore make the world's biggest salt-producing operation, and from the road the ponds look like pale mirrors. The town takes its name from the whaling ship Black Warrior, wrecked here in the 1850s. Ospreys build huge nests on poles and platforms around town, and a huge steel eagle monument marks the border between Baja California and Baja California Sur on Highway 1.
The ride down the peninsula is long, straight and hypnotic, with desert, shimmering heat and glimpses of the sea. The road is narrow and has little shoulder, trucks and campers share it, and crosswinds blow dust. Night riding is unwise because cattle, burros and potholes appear without warning. Winter, from December to April, is the best season for both whales and comfortable temperatures, while summer heat in the desert can reach forty degrees.
Fuel is available in Guerrero Negro, which has several stations, and it is wise to fill up whenever you can, since the next ones can be a long way off. The town has simple motels and restaurants serving fish tacos and clams. Whale-watching trips to the lagoon run in season from Guerrero Negro, with local guides. Carry water, a hat and cash, and remember that the sanctuary has rules to protect the animals.