Dynjandi is the waterfall that makes riders forget about the road. It pours down a wide, steep slope at the head of Arnarfjörður in a shape like a bridal veil, narrow at the top and fanning out to some sixty metres at the bottom, and below the main fall a staircase of smaller cascades tumbles on toward the shore. The whole thing is around a hundred metres high, and from the car park it is visible long before you reach it.
The ride in is part of the Westfjords' reputation. Route 60 winds around the fjords and over the mountain pass of Dynjandisheiði, with long, open bends, big drops and grand views, and sections that are paved alternate with gravel in places, so check the current condition of the road before you set out. Fog, rain and wind are all possible, and the road can be slippery. Traffic is thin, and you may ride for an hour without seeing another vehicle.
The Westfjords are the oldest part of Iceland geologically, about sixteen million years old, and the mountains here are flat-topped and cut by deep fjords, shaped by glaciers over millions of years. The landscape feels different from the south, emptier and more austere. Settlements are small, based on fishing, and many of the old farms have been abandoned as people moved to the towns.
A short path leads up beside the lower falls to the base of the main one, and the spray can drench you on a windy day. The smell of wet rock and moss is strong, and in summer the slopes around are green with grass and dotted with mountain flowers. Arctic terns nest nearby, and are fierce about it.
There is a small campsite and a simple cafe near the falls in summer, but little else, and Ísafjörður, about thirty-eight kilometres away, is the main town of the area. Take your time here, and have a good look at the falls from below as well as from the car park.