The Werbellinsee is a long, deep, glacial lake in the Schorfheide, about ten kilometres from end to end, and its shoreline is one of the loveliest in Brandenburg. Beech forest comes down to the edge, the water is clear and dark, and the road runs along it in places so close that you can smell the water. Joachimsthal lies at its northern end, and Eberswalde, a good-sized town of about forty-two thousand, is a short ride to the south.
The Schorfheide has been a hunting ground for centuries, first for the Hohenzollern princes, later for Nazi leaders and then for the rulers of East Germany. A hunting lodge on the lake, Hubertusstock, served as a retreat for East German officials, and its guests included international statesmen. Today the area is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, and parts of its ancient beech forest, such as the Grumsin, are listed as World Heritage. The deer have outlasted all their hunters.
For a rider, the shoreline road is a quiet pleasure, winding through the trees with occasional glimpses of the lake. The surface is mostly good, though patched in places, and the speed limit is low near the villages. Weekdays are calm, and weekends bring cyclists and families to the beaches. In summer, the water is clean and cool, and public beaches at several points allow swimming.
Fuel is not on the lake, so fill up in Eberswalde or Britz before you go. There are small restaurants and a few kiosks, and in season a smoked fish stand near the water. Carry some cash, as card payments are not always accepted in small places.
The best light is in the morning, when mist hangs on the water and the sun comes through the beeches in long rays. In autumn, the leaves turn copper and gold, and the reflection on the lake is double. It is a place to slow down.