The arch is what you see first, a white steel hoop rising over north-west London, visible from the North Circular, from Harrow, from the planes coming in to Heathrow. Wembley Stadium was rebuilt and reopened in 2007, replacing the old twin-towered stadium where England won the 1966 World Cup. The new one is bigger, slicker and less romantic, but on match nights the whole district still hums.
Wembley grew up around the stadium and the British Empire Exhibition of the 1920s, and much of the area is still shaped by those events. Wembley Park has been heavily redeveloped in recent years, with new apartment blocks, shops and restaurants around the stadium and the arena. On event days, traffic and parking restrictions are severe, so check the calendar before planning to finish here.
The ride into Wembley from the east is all about the A406 North Circular, one of London's busiest and most frustrating roads. Expect queues, speed cameras and frequent lane changes. Filtering is common, but take care around buses and lorries. The final approach through local roads is slow, with traffic lights, roundabouts and plenty of pedestrians.
Despite the urban sprawl, there are green corners. Fryent Country Park, to the north, is a surprising area of meadows and hedgerows on a hill with views over London. Barn Hill, at its heart, is a good place to watch the sunset over the stadium.
Wembley has every service you could want, with fuel stations, supermarkets and restaurants on every main road. Ealing Road, to the south, is famous for its South Asian shops and restaurants, and a plate of food there is one of the best ways to end a long day in the saddle.