The coast near Waterville is where the Ring of Kerry earns its reputation. The road runs along a narrow strip between the mountains and the sea, and on a clear day the views open across Ballinskelligs Bay toward the Skellig Islands, two jagged rocks that rise from the Atlantic about twelve kilometres offshore. The larger of them, Skellig Michael, holds the remains of an early medieval monastery, perched among the cliffs, where monks lived in stone beehive huts above the roaring sea. It is one of the most remarkable monastic sites anywhere, and it can be seen from the road on a good day.
Waterville is a small seaside town, with a long promenade, a few cafes, and a statue of Charlie Chaplin, who holidayed here with his family in the 1960s and fell in love with the place. Lough Currane, a large freshwater lake behind the town, is famous for its salmon and sea trout, and the surrounding hills are dotted with ancient ring forts and stone crosses. The people here speak both Irish and English, and the culture of music, storytelling, and tea with brown bread is still strong.
The riding is superb but needs attention. The road from Waterville toward Cahersiveen climbs and dips along the coast, with long bends, steep descents, and sometimes a surface that is patched or bumpy. Near Coomakista Pass, the view opens over the sea and islands, and there is a lay-by that is worth a stop. The weather can change in minutes: sunshine can give way to driving rain, and the wind off the Atlantic can be strong. Coach traffic in summer slows everything, so early starts help.
Fuel is available in Waterville and Cahersiveen, about fourteen kilometres away, and it is wise to fill up before riding the more remote parts of the coast. Dingle, across the water to the north, is the next larger place, though it is a long way round by road. There are plenty of cafes and pubs for lunch, and a bowl of seafood chowder is a good bet. Late spring and early autumn offer the best light and the fewest crowds. Wear good waterproofs, and let the weather decide the pace.