Charlie Chaplin used to holiday in Waterville, and the town has not forgotten. A bronze statue of the comedian, in his bowler hat and cane, stands on the seafront, looking out across Ballinskelligs Bay, and each August the town holds a comedy festival in his honour. Chaplin came here with his family in the 1960s and enjoyed the fishing and the quiet. It is a small, neat seaside village strung along a narrow strip of land between the bay and a large freshwater lake, Lough Currane, and the combination of water, sand and mountains makes it one of the prettiest on the Iveragh Peninsula.
The lake is famous for its salmon and sea trout, and anglers come from across Europe to fish it. A short distance away, in the water, lie small islands, one with the ruins of an early Christian monastery. The village also has a links golf course, one of the best in Ireland, and a long promenade with views over the bay. Out to sea, the rocky Skellig islands stand like dark fangs on the horizon, and Skellig Michael, with its sixth-century monastery, is reached by boat from nearby ports in season.
On the Ring of Kerry, the stretch from Cahersiveen to Waterville is a highlight. The N70 follows the coast with wide views, passing the viewpoint at Coomakista Pass, a few kilometres further on toward Caherdaniel, where the whole sweep of the Atlantic, the Skellig islands and the cliffs of the peninsula spread out below. The road is wide, with a good surface, and bends that are broad and fast, though coaches and campervans in summer mean that overtaking is sometimes necessary. Early morning and late afternoon give the best light. The weather is Atlantic, so wind and rain are always a possibility.
The Iveragh coast is wild and beautiful, with sandy beaches, rocky headlands, gorse and fuchsia hedges, and views of the open ocean. Seabirds, including gannets and puffins, can be seen off the coast, and in summer, the sunsets over the bay are long and golden.
Waterville has fuel, small shops, pubs and cafés, serving seafood chowder, fresh crab and smoked salmon, and it is a sensible refuelling stop on the western stretch of the Ring. Cahersiveen, about seventeen kilometres to the north, is the next larger place. A walk along the seafront, past the statue, and a pint in a local pub completes the day.