The southern half of the Peace Park is Glacier National Park in Montana, a rugged expanse of peaks, lakes and valleys carved by ice, with the Continental Divide running through its core. The park was established in 1910 and covers more than a million acres, and in its heyday it held about a hundred and fifty glaciers. Climate change has reduced that to a few dozen, and the shrinking of the ice is one of the park's central stories.
Its great road is the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a narrow, spectacular route built in the 1920s and finished in 1933, which crosses the mountains at Logan Pass, at about 2,025 metres. It clings to cliffs on the western slope, passes through a rock tunnel and a long arched gallery, and runs beside waterfalls and meadows. Because snow lingers, the full road usually opens only around late June or July and closes in October, and in recent summers the park has sometimes required advance vehicle reservations, so check the current rules. Vehicle size limits also apply on the narrow western section.
Wildlife is part of the magic: mountain goats and bighorn sheep appear near Logan Pass, and grizzly and black bears wander the valleys, so carry bear spray if you hike, and never approach animals. The park lies on the traditional lands of the Blackfeet people, whose reservation borders it on the east, and their cultural centre and events add depth to a visit. The weather is unpredictable, with cold, rain and even snow at the pass in midsummer, and the road can get very busy.
Services in the park are seasonal and fairly simple, with lodges and restaurants that close in autumn. Early morning gives the best light and fewest crowds, and the east side tends to be windy. Bring layers, a good rain jacket and plenty of patience for slow traffic and roadworks.