High in the Taunus hills northwest of Frankfurt, the Upper German Limes runs along the main ridge, and here, between Glashütten and Schmitten, a series of watchtower sites and the remains of a small fort follow the frontier through dense beech and spruce forest. The bank and ditch of the Limes are still clearly visible, winding over the hills like a long scar, and the area is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site. Nearby, on the Kleiner Feldberg, lie the remains of a Roman fort, and a few kilometres east, the Saalburg near Bad Homburg is a fully reconstructed fort with a museum, the best place in Germany to imagine life on the frontier.
The real draw for motorcyclists, though, is the Großer Feldberg, the highest point in the Taunus at 881 metres, which rises just to the east. Its summit, with a tower, a viewing platform and a few kiosks, has long been a gathering point for riders from the whole Rhine-Main region, and on a sunny weekend the car park is full of bikes of every kind. From the top, on a clear day, you can see the skyline of Frankfurt, the Rhine valley and the Odenwald.
The roads that climb to the Feldberg and cross the Taunus are among the most popular in the area, with flowing bends, hairpins and steep climbs through the forest. Their popularity has a downside: heavy weekend traffic, frequent police checks and speed limits, and over the years some stretches have seen extra restrictions aimed at motorcycles because of noise and accidents. Ride with care and consideration, especially in the villages. In winter, the high Taunus can be snowy and icy.
Glashütten and Schmitten are small towns with fuel and some services, and Königstein, with its castle ruin and elegant villas, has more choice. The Feldberg summit offers snacks and drinks, and the villages of the Taunus have traditional inns serving Hessian specialities like Handkäse mit Musik, a sour milk cheese marinated in vinegar and onions, and Grüne Soße, a cold herb sauce served with eggs and potatoes, especially in spring.