The Upper German-Raetian Limes began its long march across Germany on the banks of the Rhine at Rheinbrohl, and climbed from there into the hills of the Westerwald. The stretch between Watchtowers 1/58 and 1/59, near Höhr-Grenzhausen, is part of this first section, where the frontier ran through forests and over hills above the Rhine valley. Remains are scarce here, perhaps a mound or a line in the forest floor, but the Limes path follows the route, and information boards explain the history.
Höhr-Grenzhausen is the centre of the Kannenbäckerland, the land of the jug bakers, where potters have made salt-glazed stoneware for centuries. The grey and blue Westerwald stoneware, decorated with cobalt patterns, was exported across Europe and beyond, and you can still see potters at work in workshops and visit the Keramikmuseum Westerwald in the town. The tradition is alive, with modern ceramic artists alongside the old crafts.
The Westerwald is a region of rolling hills, forests and small towns between the Rhine, the Lahn and the Sieg. It is quieter than the Rhine valley, with fewer tourists, and the landscape is green and peaceful. Koblenz, a short ride south, sits at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle, at the Deutsches Eck, where a huge equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I stands. Across the Rhine, the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein looms above the city.
The riding is good. The roads through the Westerwald are winding, with gentle hills, forests and villages, and traffic is light. The descent to the Rhine valley offers views over the river, and from there you can follow the Rhine south through the gorge or the Moselle west, both superb riding routes. Surfaces are generally good, though minor roads can be patched. Watch for deer, farm traffic and cyclists.
Höhr-Grenzhausen has fuel, shops and restaurants. Try a hearty Westerwald dish such as Döppekuchen, a potato cake baked with bacon, or a glass of local beer. The weather in the hills is cooler and wetter than in the Rhine valley, with fog and snow in winter. Spring and autumn are lovely, with blossom or golden leaves. Pick up a stoneware jug as a souvenir, if you have room in the panniers.