The Romans liked straight lines, and nowhere more than here. On the edge of Walldürn, in the hilly country between the Odenwald and the Tauber valley, runs the course of the Upper Germanic-Raetian Limes, the frontier wall that marked the edge of the Roman Empire across what is now southern Germany. Watchtower WP 7/37 is one of hundreds of small posts that lined it, each within sight of the next, so that signals could be passed along the frontier. The Limes here famously runs almost dead straight for many kilometres, regardless of hills and valleys, a statement of Roman confidence and surveying skill.
At the site itself, expect modest remains, perhaps a low mound or the outline of foundations, along with an information board. The interest lies in the wider picture: a watchtower, a palisade and ditch, and soldiers posted on this ridge two thousand years ago, keeping an eye on the Germanic lands beyond. Walldürn also has the remains of a Roman bath house, which belonged to a small fort and is worth a short detour.
The town is better known as a place of pilgrimage. According to tradition, in the fourteenth century a priest knocked over a chalice during mass, and the spilled wine formed an image of Christ on the cloth. The relic drew pilgrims for centuries, and the large baroque basilica still welcomes thousands each summer, especially during the main pilgrimage weeks.
The riding in this part of Germany is very good. To the west lies the Odenwald, a favourite of riders from Frankfurt and Heidelberg, with wooded hills, winding roads and small half-timbered villages. To the north, the Main valley around Miltenberg and Amorbach is beautiful, with red sandstone towns and river bends. The landscape around Walldürn itself, the Bauland, is more open and rolling, with farmland and quiet roads ideal for relaxed touring. Be aware that some Odenwald routes have weekend restrictions or speed limits for motorbikes because of noise and accidents, and police checks are frequent in summer.
Walldürn, with around twelve thousand people, has fuel, supermarkets and plenty of bakeries and inns. Try a local Schäufele, roast pork shoulder, or a slice of cake with coffee, and take a short walk along the line of the old frontier.