High in the Taunus, the wooded hills northwest of Frankfurt, the Roman Limes followed the ridge line, and its watchtowers looked out over the forests to the north. Watchtower WP 3/49, near Schmitten and Glashütten, is one of hundreds of such posts recorded along the frontier, and today its remains lie in the woods, a low mound or a scatter of stones. The Limes path, a long-distance walking trail, follows the line through the forest, and walkers can trace the ditch and bank of the old frontier for kilometres. The whole line is part of the Upper German-Raetian Limes World Heritage site.
A short ride east, near Bad Homburg, the Saalburg is the best place to understand the Limes. It is a Roman fort that was reconstructed in the early twentieth century under the patronage of Kaiser Wilhelm II, with walls, gates, barracks and a museum. It gives a vivid picture of life on the frontier, and the reconstructed watchtowers nearby show what posts like WP 3/49 looked like.
The Taunus is Frankfurt's playground, a region of forests, hills and spa towns. The highest point, the Großer Feldberg, rises to 878 metres, with a tower and views over the Rhine-Main plain and the city's skyscrapers. Königstein, below, has a ruined castle and an elegant old town. The forests are full of walkers, cyclists and riders at weekends.
The riding in the Taunus is excellent and popular. The roads that wind up to the Feldberg and through the hills have many bends, steep gradients and good surfaces, and on sunny weekends the car park at the summit fills with motorcycles. But the popularity has a downside: accidents and noise have led to speed limits, controls and sometimes weekend closures for motorcycles on certain roads. Check current restrictions, ride sensibly and respect the locals.
Schmitten, Glashütten and Königstein all have fuel, shops and restaurants. Try a glass of apple wine and a plate of Grüne Soße, Frankfurt's green herb sauce served with eggs and potatoes. The weather in the hills is cooler and wetter than in the plain, with fog, rain and snow in winter. Spring and autumn are lovely, with fresh green or golden forests. Go on a weekday for quieter roads.