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Watchtower WP 3/4*

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In the western Taunus, between Bad Schwalbach and Taunusstein, the forest is thick and the hills roll gently, and the Upper German Limes runs along the ridge here as a still visible bank and ditch. The site labelled Watchtower WP 3/4 is one of the many small posts along this section, and a few kilometres to the east, near Taunusstein-Orlen, the fort of Zugmantel guarded a crossing of the frontier on an old trade route into Germanic territory. These remains are part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site, and a walk along the Limes trail through the forest here is peaceful and atmospheric.

Bad Schwalbach, a few kilometres away, was once one of the most fashionable spa towns in Germany, visited by aristocrats and royalty who came to drink its iron-rich waters. Its spa park, elegant bath houses and old hotels still give it a nineteenth-century air. Nearby Schlangenbad, which takes its name from the harmless Aesculapian snakes that live in its woods, is another historic spa. To the south, the hills drop towards the Rheingau, one of Germany's most famous wine regions, with vineyards stretching down to the Rhine.

For riders, the area offers a rich network of quiet roads. The Bäderstraße, the historic spa road, links Bad Schwalbach and the other spa towns with Wiesbaden and the Rhine, with long sweeping sections through forest and valleys. Smaller roads wind through the Aar valley and over the hills, with good surfaces and little traffic. Roads descending to the Rhine through the Wisper valley and towards Lorch on the river are especially enjoyable, with tight bends and wooded slopes. Beware of wildlife at dusk and wet leaves in autumn.

Bad Schwalbach and Taunusstein both have fuel stations, cafés and restaurants. The Rheingau, a short ride south, is perfect for a meal and a glass of Riesling, ideally at one of the seasonal wine taverns, the Straußwirtschaften, which open only for a few weeks each year. Try Rheingauer Spundekäs, a creamy cheese dip with pretzels, or a plate of local game in autumn.

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