East of Carlisle, between the villages of Brampton and Wetheral, the countryside rolls gently towards the Pennines, with green fields, hedges and patches of woodland. Somewhere in these fields lie the faint traces of Watchclose, a Roman temporary camp, one of many marching camps built by soldiers on campaign or during the construction of Hadrian's Wall. These camps were enclosed by a ditch and bank and used for a night or a season, and today they are often visible only from the air or as slight undulations in the grass. Watchclose is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site.
The wall itself runs a few kilometres to the north, through some of its most interesting western stretches. Birdoswald fort, perched above a gorge of the river Irthing, has well-preserved walls and gates, and a long section of the wall runs east from there. Lanercost Priory, a short ride from Brampton, is a beautiful ruined Augustinian abbey built partly with stone taken from the wall, and Edward I stayed there during his campaigns against the Scots. Carlisle, the border city, has a medieval castle and cathedral and a museum with a fine Roman collection.
The riding in this area is pleasant, with narrow lanes winding through farmland and villages, and the A69 offering a faster route between Carlisle and Newcastle. North of the wall, quieter roads lead into the hills and forests of Kielder, and south, the A686 climbs over the Pennines to Alston, one of the finest motorcycle roads in England, with long climbs, sweeping bends and spectacular views. Weather here can be wet and windy, even in summer, and mist and rain can descend quickly on the hills.
Brampton, a small market town with a few thousand inhabitants, has fuel, shops and pubs, and Carlisle has everything you need. Try a Cumberland sausage, a long coiled sausage seasoned with pepper, or a slice of Cumbrian ham with eggs, and finish with sticky toffee pudding, said to have been created in the Lake District not far away.