Washpool is one of those places that people drive past without knowing, which is a shame, because it holds some of the most extensive old-growth rainforest in New South Wales. It lies on the rugged escarpment of the Great Dividing Range between Glen Innes and Grafton, a landscape of granite domes, deep gullies and cool, dripping forest that is part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area. The trees include coachwood, a tall, smooth-barked species that forms dense canopy, and ancient stands of Antarctic beech on the higher ground, alongside tree ferns and mosses.
The nearest main road is the Gwydir Highway, which crosses the range between the tablelands and the coast and is one of the more rewarding east-west routes in the region. The road climbs and twists, with long, open sweeps through eucalypt forest and the occasional view over the Clarence valley, and it passes the turn-off to the park. Parts of the highway are fast and open, and parts are tight and shaded, so conditions change quickly, particularly with morning mist or after rain. Heavy trucks use the route, so patience is a virtue.
Within the park, the tracks are largely unsealed, and a few are suited to small bikes only. Coombadjha Creek, which runs through the heart of the forest, has a clear pool for swimming in warm months, and a short walking track follows it through the trees. Platypus and a variety of birds live along the creek, and the call of lyrebirds and whipbirds fills the forest in the early morning. The campground at Coombadjha is a good base for walks.
For supplies, the nearest big towns are Glen Innes, on the tablelands, and Grafton on the coast, and both have fuel, shops and accommodation. The tablelands are also considerably colder than the coast, and winter nights can drop below freezing, so a warm layer is sensible.
Visit in spring, when the wildflowers bloom and the creeks run clear, or in autumn, when the air is crisp and the crowds are thin.