Warwick is a town built on onions, apples and a good deal of local pride. It lies in the Hudson Valley's Warwick Valley, a broad, green bowl of farmland between ridges of old rock, and the flat, black land to the south and east is known as the Black Dirt Region, a former swamp drained in the nineteenth century to reveal soil so rich and dark that it is called muck. Onions, lettuce and other vegetables grow there in vast quantities, and in the autumn you can see the crops being harvested by teams of workers under a sky full of gulls. About seven thousand people live in the town, so there is plenty of fuel and food.
The town centre is a handsome collection of brick and clapboard buildings around a small green, with a decent run of cafes, bakeries and shops, and the area is known for its farm stands, orchards and vineyards. Apple picking in September and October draws crowds, and the cider and the doughnuts are worth the queue. A winery and a distillery are close by, serving tastings on weekends, but remember that riding and drinking do not mix, and take your purchases home.
For riders, Warwick is a gateway to a network of small roads that wind through the hills toward Greenwood Lake and the New Jersey border. The roads are curvy, well surfaced and quiet outside the weekends, with long views over farmland, and the scenery is a gentle one of stone walls, red barns and maple woods. In early October the colours are superb, and it is hard to beat a ride through the valley in the low sun. The Appalachian Trail crosses the Pochuck valley nearby on a long boardwalk, which is a short walk from the road and worth a look.
Greenwood Lake, about seven kilometres from the town, is a long, narrow lake that straddles the state line, with small shops and restaurants on its shore. The mood in Warwick is relaxed, the weather in autumn is crisp, and the town is a welcoming place to stop for the night. Watch for farm vehicles on the roads in harvest season, and for deer, which are everywhere at dawn and dusk. A cold glass of cider by the green, with the maples turning, is a fitting way to end the day.