Wangaratta stands where the Ovens and King rivers meet, on the flat plains at the foot of Victoria's north-eastern ranges, and it is the gate to the high country. The Great Alpine Road starts here, and for many riders, the day begins with a coffee on the main street before the long climb into the hills. The town has about eighteen thousand people, a wide central square, and a mix of old brick buildings and newer shops.
The country around is rich in history. The famous bushranger Ned Kelly was captured at Glenrowan, a short distance to the west, in a shoot-out in 1880, and the area is full of Kelly sites. The nearby town of Beechworth, a gold-rush settlement with well-preserved stone buildings, is a short ride to the east. Rutherglen, to the north, is known for its fortified wines, especially muscats and tokays, aged in old barrels and sweet as syrup.
Wangaratta is also known for its music. Every November, the Wangaratta Festival of Jazz and Blues fills the town with musicians and visitors, and the cafes and pubs have live bands. If you arrive then, book a bed well in advance.
For riding, the highlight is the road itself. The Great Alpine Road heads south-east along the Ovens Valley, through Myrtleford and Bright, with beautiful farmland and tall poplars that glow in autumn, then climbs through the forest to Mount Hotham, one of the highest sealed roads in Australia. The first stretch is easy and flat, and the bends tighten later. Autumn is lovely, but can bring early morning frost. In summer, bushfire is a risk, and in winter, snow.
Fuel is easy in town, and the supermarkets and cafes are good. This is the place to fill the tank, check your tyres and buy water before heading into the hills, because services become fewer farther on. Take a layer, as the mountains are cold, even on a sunny day.