Wang Nam Khiao is a highland district in Nakhon Ratchasima province, in the hills just south of the great forest of Khao Yai, and it is the kind of country Thai city dwellers go to when they want cooler air and green views. Its name means green water valley, and the valley is a patchwork of farms, resorts and orchards on a plateau a few hundred metres above the plains. The hills are the rim of a bigger system, the Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site where wild elephants, gibbons, hornbills and tigers still live in the deep forest.
The area has changed rapidly in recent decades, from a quiet farming district to a weekend escape for Bangkok. Today, it is dotted with farm stays, cafes, small wineries and flower gardens, and the roads are lined with signs. Local farms grow cassava, corn, fruit and vegetables, and the cooler climate suits strawberries and grapes. The scenery is a series of rolling hills and open vistas, with the forest on the horizon.
The riding here is relaxed and enjoyable. Roads through the hills have gentle gradients and smooth bends, with fine surfaces in most places, though Thai roads are shared with trucks, pickups, motorbikes and the occasional dog, so keep an eye out. Drivers can be unpredictable, overtaking on blind bends or turning without warning, so give them space and ride defensively. In the rainy season, from May to October, afternoon downpours can flood roads and make surfaces slippery. The cool season, from November to February, is the best time, with clear skies and cool mornings, and sometimes mist in the valleys.
Nature is the draw. The forest teems with birds, and in the early morning, the air is filled with calls. Waterfalls flow in the wet season, and wildflowers bloom along the roads. Elephants occasionally cross the roads in the national park, so keep alert, particularly at dusk.
Services are scattered. There are PTT stations on the main roads and plenty of small shops, and the district has many cafes, with some serving good coffee grown in the region. Pak Chong, about forty kilometres away, is the main town for supplies, and has everything you need. Bring cash for small shops, and a rain jacket whatever the season.