Wandu is the mountain fortress that Koguryo's rulers built to retreat to when their lowland capital was threatened, and it still stands above the Yalu valley, a long line of stone walls following the contours of a steep ridge. Its builders chose a site where cliffs and slopes made natural defences, and the gates, towers, lookout platforms and palace foundations are visible in the forest. It is a place of long silences and big views, the sort of site that makes the strategy of the old kingdom obvious.
The city of Ji'an, a short distance below, was Koguryo's capital for about four centuries, until the court moved to Pyongyang in 427. The fortress was the backup: a place to hold when the plain was lost. Together with Guonei, the lowland city, and the tombs scattered in the valley, it makes up the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom. The walls are made of carefully cut granite blocks, laid without mortar, and in places they stand several metres high.
The climb to the fortress is on foot, on a steep path through oak and pine forest. It takes some effort but is rewarded with views over the Yalu and across to the hills of North Korea. In autumn, the woods are gold and red, and in spring, wild azaleas bloom on the slopes. The weather is continental, with cold, dry winters and warm, humid summers, and mist often fills the valley in the mornings.
As for riding, this region requires planning. China does not generally allow foreign visitors to ride their own motorcycles without special permits and a guide, so check the rules before you set off. The nearest big town is Manp'o across the river, and on the Chinese side Ji'an has fuel, shops, hotels and restaurants. Try the local mountain vegetables and grilled fish, and drink plenty of water on the climb. A good pair of shoes matters more than anything on this site.