The strangest stones in Africa may be the lyre-shaped ones at Wanar. The site, in the Sine-Saloum region of central Senegal, is among the largest groups of megaliths on the continent, with dozens of circles made of tall, rounded laterite pillars, and among them stand a few unusual forked stones, shaped like a lyre or a letter Y, with a notch cut in the top. Archaeologists think they were made by deliberately splitting the stone, and the form seems to echo the shape of a branched tree. Nobody can say for sure what the shape meant, which is part of the appeal. The stones at Wanar form part of the Senegambian stone circles, listed as World Heritage in 2006.
The setting is the peanut basin, a flat, sandy country with fields of groundnuts and millet, scattered baobab and acacia trees, and villages of mud-brick and thatch, where groups of women pound grain in the early morning. Dry season, from November to May, makes the landscape pale and dusty, with a golden haze, and the rains from July to October turn it a deep green. Sereer and Wolof people live here, and the village near the stones takes care of the site.
On a motorbike, Senegal's roads are manageable, but they require alertness. The main highways are paved and generally good, with long straight stretches, while the minor roads are often sandy, with deep corrugations and drifts, so a light touch and steady speed are needed. Donkey carts, bush taxis and herds of goats are common hazards, and nighttime riding is unwise, since vehicles often lack lights. Police checkpoints are frequent, and it is useful to carry copies of your documents. The heat can be intense in the hot months, from March to June, and the best time to ride is between December and February.
Nioro du Rip, twenty-three kilometres away, is a market town of about twenty thousand with fuel stations, small shops and basic lodging, and Kaolack, a bigger city to the west, offers a wider choice. Local food includes millet porridge, rice with fish and the thick peanut stew called mafe, and the sweet, spiced hibiscus drink, bissap, is a good way to cool down. Carry plenty of water and expect to be greeted warmly by the children who come out to see the visitors.