Wānaka is a lakeside town that grew up without quite deciding to. A few thousand people live here, on the southern shore of a long glacial lake, with mountains in every direction and the white bulk of the Southern Alps closing the northern horizon. The great peak of Mount Aspiring, nearly three thousand metres high, is a pyramid you may glimpse on a clear day beyond the lake, and it is a rewarding sight after the climb from Queenstown.
The town is relaxed and slightly bohemian, with cafes, outdoor shops and an air of people on holiday. The famous lone willow growing out of the lake water has become a photographic star, and every morning there is a patient queue of cameras. Nearby Roys Peak rewards a long walk with a view over the lake, and Puzzling World, with its leaning tower and mazes, has entertained families for decades. The area has a gold-rush past, though it is now tourism and farming that pay the bills, and the local airshow, held at Easter in some years, draws crowds for old aeroplanes.
For motorcyclists, Wānaka is the end of a very good road. The Crown Range, which climbs out of Queenstown and reaches about 1,076 metres at its summit, is the highest main road in New Zealand, with tight hairpins and fast, open bends through tussock country. It descends through the Cardrona Valley, past the historic Cardrona Hotel, a gold-rush survivor from the 1860s, and the famous fence of bras, which is exactly what it sounds like. Snow can close the road in winter and chains are required on occasion, so check conditions. Gravel and ice can linger on the shaded bends, and the weather can be fierce.
Fuel is available in Wānaka, which is a convenience since the stretches between settlements are long. The nearest larger centre is Cromwell, about forty kilometres away, with more shops and services. Cafes on the lakefront serve good coffee, and fish and chips taste better beside the water.
Summer is warm and busy, autumn is glorious with golden poplars and willows, and winter brings snow and skiers. Whichever season you choose, take a moment on the shore and watch the light move across the water. The mountains look different every hour.