Waldshut is a small town on the High Rhine, with Switzerland on the opposite bank, and its character is that of a border place with a long, slightly cantankerous history. The old town, a neat street running between two gates, the Upper Gate and the Lower Gate, is painted in cheerful colours and has the feel of a medieval fortress trimmed for peacetime. Waldshut was part of Habsburg Austria for centuries, and in 1524 it became one of the first towns to join the Peasants' War, led by the preacher Balthasar Hubmaier, who was later burned in Vienna. The twin town of Tiengen, a few kilometres away, has an old castle and its own market.
With more than twenty thousand people in the combined town, you will find fuel, shops and restaurants. A bridge carries the road across the Rhine to Koblenz, in the Swiss canton of Aargau, and the border post is quick. The river is big and green here, flowing out of Lake Constance, and just upstream and downstream are weirs, power stations and the sort of bends that make for fine fishing. Waldshut is also known for its fair, the Chilbi, held in late summer, with fairground rides and a lot of beer.
The Black Forest Panorama Route, the B500, ends here after a long run from Baden-Baden through the highest parts of the range. The southern section is the quieter one, with long, smooth curves, forested ridges and farmhouses with deep roofs, and as you descend toward the Rhine, the air turns warmer and the valley opens. The roads are among the best in the region, but they are heavily used on weekends, and German police enforce speed limits and noise rules for motorcycles on some stretches, so check signs and keep to a sensible pace.
On a clear day, you can see the Swiss Alps from the heights above the town, a faint white line along the southern horizon. The summers are warm and the autumns long, with fog sometimes lying in the Rhine valley. Fuel here is cheaper than in Switzerland, so it is worth filling the tank before crossing, and the cafés in the old town are a pleasant place to finish. Order a plate of Black Forest ham and a glass of local wine, and the day sorts itself out.