Waiouru is a military town on the edge of a desert, which sounds like a joke but is simply geography. The settlement sits at about 800 metres on the central plateau of the North Island, in the rain shadow of the three great volcanoes, and the surrounding land of tussock, gravel and wind-bent scrub gets the name Rangipo Desert because of its dry, stony look. In truth it receives plenty of rain, but the soil drains instantly and little grows.
Around thirteen hundred people live here, many connected to the army base, and the National Army Museum, which tells the story of the New Zealand army from the colonial wars to modern peacekeeping, is the main attraction. It is a thoughtful and well-presented museum, with uniforms, vehicles and personal letters, and it is worth an hour if the weather is bad, which it often is. Waiouru is the highest settlement on the main highway, and snow and ice can close State Highway 1 for hours in winter.
The Desert Road, which runs north from here to Turangi, climbs to about 1,074 metres, the highest point on the New Zealand state highway network. It crosses a bleak and beautiful plain, with Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro filling the western horizon, and the long straights and sweeping rises suit a relaxed pace. Wind is the great enemy, since it can hit with surprising force, and snow, ice and fog are all possible in any month except mid-summer. Check the road report before setting out, because the road is closed several times each winter.
Beside the road, a memorial recalls the Tangiwai disaster of Christmas Eve 1953, when a lahar from Ruapehu's crater lake swept away a railway bridge just before the Auckland express arrived, killing 151 people. It is a sombre reminder that the mountains are alive, and Ruapehu erupted again in the mid-1990s.
Fuel is available in Waiouru, which is important because the next services are a long way along the road, and the cold can drain a tank quickly. Cafes and bakeries serve hot pies and strong coffee, a well-worn tradition among travellers heading through. Fill up, dress warmly and go.
Aim for a clear morning, when the volcanoes stand out, and the long road ahead feels like an invitation.