Wailuku is the county seat of Maui and one of the oldest towns on the island, a modest place of about fifteen thousand people on the slopes below the West Maui Mountains, where the valley of ʻĪao opens onto the central isthmus. It is often overlooked by visitors rushing between the airport and the beaches, which is a pity, because the town has an unpretentious charm, with historic buildings, small restaurants, antique shops and a slower rhythm than the resorts.
The valley behind the town is a place of deep significance. ʻĪao Valley State Monument is a steep, green gorge with a slender volcanic spire, the ʻĪao Needle, rising from the forest, and its stream runs clear and cold. In 1790, the Battle of Kepaniwai took place here, when Kamehameha the Great's forces defeated the army of Maui, and legend says the stream was choked with bodies. Today the valley is peaceful, with rainforest, mist and birdsong. It is also one of the wettest places on the island, so bring a jacket.
For a rider, Wailuku is the end of the Kahekili Highway, after a long, slow, twisting ride around the north coast, and the first sight of a proper town, with traffic lights and supermarkets, can come as a relief. The roads here are wide and busy, and the contrast with the winding coastal road is sharp. Kahului, a larger town only a few kilometres away, has the main harbour, airport and shopping centres, and Wailuku and Kahului together form the commercial heart of the island.
You will find fuel and food on the main roads, and the town has a number of small restaurants serving local dishes: saimin noodle soup, plate lunches, and fresh poke, as well as fresh baked goods. The old Bailey House museum, a former mission building, has a collection of Hawaiian artefacts and paintings. Weather in the town is usually dry and warm, though the valley often catches showers, and the trade winds keep the air fresh. Early morning is a quiet time, and a short walk in the old streets makes a good ending to the day.